Developed for emerging designers on the rise, the One to Watch Show at Vauxhall Fashion Scoutis known for showcasing the most innovative design talent. Four designers showed their collections on the catwalk as an opportunity for exposure and an introduction to the fashion industry during London Fashion Week.
Ming Pin Tien Opening with Ming Pin Tien helped solidify why London continues to be on the map for developing new talent. His cage-like top, made from leather strips and detailed with hardware showed his penchant for patternmaking and meticulous craftsmanship. This London College of Fashion graduate also showed a jacket with similar detailing, grandiose in nature, that was also unforgettable. Other pieces balanced the conception and showed his range of capabilities. Trenches and jackets in military green and cream had feminine cuts and included zig zag and paint blot patterns which also transcended on to more wearable cuts like vests with trains and midriff revealing tops with collars paired with cropped tops. Looking at the back of these looks, there were more ornate treatments which showed that he could combine combine the best of both worlds into creative, wearable pieces.
Classic, well-tailored pieces with a sophisticated opulence was Charlotte Simpson’s forte. Soft, yet charmingly vibrant colors like citrus, mint green, yellow and blue made her color story for what she calls a “throw on” couture collection. And, despite the easy of wearability, her looks could elevate the presence of her woman as her minimal approach to designing elegant silhouettes such as long gowns with deep v-necks and waist conturing cuts capture the female body with grace. Her distinctive treatments such as hand embroidered embellishments using beads and sequins showed the importance of detailing this season and double layers on vests and smart blazers paired with fluid pants made up her charismatic collation.
Hellen van Rees
Influenced by Coco Chanel, Hellen van Rees has taken the tweed jacket, made from recycled yarns and factory remnants and given it a modern, three-dimensional twist. Pairing red, yellow and black cubes wound in yarns on dresses and jackets at the hem, along the princess line or even as a headpiece in a rectangular plume, her designs are sure to make for salivating pieces for editorials, and as Hellen assured, that are wearable too. The other treatment showed down the runway was the result of her “cooking” concoctions. Admitting to mixing glitter, sand, flour and other substances to make silicone cubes, her dresses, shorts and cropped jackets all in classic silhouettes showed her ability to go from the forward-pushing practical to the textural ornate.
How many ways can you play up a black and white monochromatic color story? For spring, Hana Cha showed us a multitude of possibilities. Fringe, one of her most noticeable treatments was cleverly placed on dresses, skirts and trains which showed a swift movement down the catwalk. There was also the use of paint; both splattered and full of brush strokes that even in chaos, created a harmonious effect on dresses and jeans. She also brought in star detailing on ombre tops, bracelets, hats making the collection diverse, and in totality, looks that could work for spring and beyond.